For the May, 2015 issue of Threads (No. 178) I decided to study the article on staystitching, p. 74. I sewed the Morris Blazer by Grainline Studios.
Staystitching is a row of permanent, straight stitches sewn on single, cut garment pieces before they are seamed together. Staystitching helps maintain the grainline of curved areas of garment pieces during the construction process.
Important information about staystitching:
* It is generally sewn 1/8 in. inside the seam allowance.
* Use the same thread and stitch length that you’ll use when sewing the garment. But sew a test row on a scrap of fabric to test for tension since you’ll be sewing on a single thickness.
* Be careful not to stretch the fabric as you sew.
* It is important to staystitch soon after cutting the pattern pieces from your fabric. Colleterie.com says that simply moving your fabric around a few times, depending upon the fabric, can stretch out curves.
* Always try to sew in the direction of the fabric’s grain because sewing against the grain may cause distortion. Threads gives basic rules for the staystiching direction: “higher to lower” or “wider to narrower”.
Where to staystitch? Anywhere there are curves or diagonal seams that may become stretched out. Also staystitch shoulders because they are cut on a slight bias. Common places to staystitch include neckline, armholes, curved waist of a skirt, rounded facing edges, V-necklines.
The highlighted arrows are my plans for staystitching.
Bonus: Many curved areas require clipping after seaming so that they’ll lie flat when pressed. Staystitching gives you a point to clip to, and stays and strengthens the seamline to be clipped.
See the Threads article for more information on directional stitching.
This was a very good article with lots of good information. Other articles I looked at were Coletterie.com, a Craftsy blog post on staystitching, and Threads Issue No. 77 from July, 1998 “Basics Staystitching, p. 18.
An additional step I took was to loosely catch stitch the facings so they wouldn’t flop around.
I’m really pleased with this quick little blazer. This photo is not too flattering. It was a bright, sunny day and the clothes are not styled well, but at least it gives you an idea of the finished blazer.